Last month, I introduced one of my quilting buddies, Kate Colleran of Kate Colleran Designs. She likes to help quilters make quilts! Part of her philosophy on teaching has always been to share different ways to do things and let the quilter pick the way that works best for them!
A while back, she and a fellow quilter, Tammy Silvers of Tamarinis started a blog series called Exploring the Basics which was all about providing information on the many different steps of making a quilt. They started at the beginning, chatting about choosing a project and picking a pattern, deciding on a color scheme and choosing fabrics, cutting, pressing and so much more! Every post had a specific topic.
The color scheme post probably has universal interest! Find it here.
Then they moved onto blocks, making HST units and FG and QST units and explored different techniques. Find the HST post here.
Then they moved onto blocks! Two of Kate's most popular block posts are the Disappearing Nine Patch and the Disappearing 4 Patch blocks! She even made the Disappearing 4 Patch post into a PDF handout that you can buy so you don't have to keep searching for the post! Disappearing Nine Patch here.
If you need help with binding, check out this post!
Kate continues to add to this series with posts on the blocks she makes with the Block Remix series. Reading those posts can give you ideas on how you can recreate a basic block and make a new one all your own!!
Head on over to Kate's Blog and explore quilting basics!
Keep on reading our Quilting at the Poorhouse Blog for more installments in our Building a Better Bag series!
-Kris
Have you ever run into those bulky seam intersections when making a bag? Then this post is for you! We’re diving into techniques that help you make a better bag – scroll down to link to other posts in our Building a Better Bag series!
The ideas in this post can be applied to any bag that might have some bulky seams. We are using the Novel Approach pattern as an example; it’s a quilted tote – pretty basic, but pretty useful!
Our tote features QT Fabric’s On Painted Wings panel combined with the Euphoria line. Love the bright and fresh factor of these fabrics!
Let’s get started with the tools you will need to use to handle thick seams:
The side seams on this tote will be bound, as it’s a quilted tote. Stitch together using a walking foot for even feed. To minimize thickness of the seam allowance, press the seam allowance only with the side of your iron, using pressure. Avoid pressing into the quilted body of the tote to maintain the quilting texture.
When the seam is still warm, apply additional pressure with the clapper. This creates a nice flat seam.
Bind the seam using your walking foot. To reduce bulk when boxing the corner, consider applying a single fold binding, instead of double fold.
When boxing the corners of the tote, there are a lot of bulk. The intersection includes 2 layers of foam and many layers of fabric. This is a perfect time to use the hump jumper.
Why? Sewing machines are not built to stitch “uphill”. A hump jumper helps by lifting the presser foot to the same level as those thick layers.
Before boxing the corners (note the bound seams which will now be part of the boxed seam):
Bring the sides and bottom seams together; alternate seam allowances to minimize the thickness. Clip in place.
Position the hump jumper tool behind and under the presser foot. It lifts the presser foot so it can do its job.
Once you have sewn over the thick part of the seam, you can slide the tool away.
If you don’t have the tool shown above, a stack of sticky notes under the back of the presser foot will do the job and lift it to the height you need. I am using the stack of notes during the binding of that boxed corner.
When binding the short, boxed seam, cut the ends even with the ends of the seam and use seam sealant like Fray Check to prevent fraying.
The final finish of this bag is a binding. Bind from the outside, as you would a quilt. Then bring the binding to the inside about 1/8th of an inch past the binding seam and clip in place.
Top-stitch the binding on the outside, just below the seam to catch the binding (below is inside of bag).
Use the hump jumper here as well, for stitching over the side seams.
And with a quick press, our bag is done!
If you would like to see our previous Building a Better Bag posts, click below:
Building a Better Bag – Fusing Foam
Building a Better Bag – Easy Quilting
Building a Better Bag – Straps and Pockets
I’ll be back with more tips for building a better bag!
Thanks for stopping by!
-Kris
We all have quilting friends - I'd like you to meet one of mine! Kate Colleran of Kate Colleran Designs and I have been quilting pals for quite a while - I met her at Quilt Market in 2009 and we have been buddies since then. We chat about our ideas, share our successes and yes, failures, and attend Quilt Market together. So, sit back, have a cup of tea, and let's chat!
Kate, let's start at the beginning - what did you do before you were a pattern designer?
I went to college for nursing and I worked as a nurse for over 30 years. I made my first quilt when I was a teenager so really I started quilting before I started working as a nurse.
I love that! What is your favorite type of quilt to make? And...do you have any favorite techniques?
I am not sure I have a favorite quilt or technique. I do love making basic units like 4 patch units, HST units and FG units and my favorite part is when I sew 4 units together and the seams all nest together beautifully. Bam! One of my other favorite techniques is making braids. I love to call it Sunday sewing as I don't have to worry about matching points and seams, I can just sew and then trim and I have this cool looking braid!
I'd love to know if you have any other hobbies.
I love to read and I read most nights before bed. It relaxes me. Well, unless I am really into a story and then sometimes I stay up way too late so I can finish! I also knit, cross-stitch and like to draw though I am not very good. I just like to create things. I also hike, take Pilates and love to spend time by the beach.
Colors - how do you approach choosing colors for a quilt?
Each quilt starts differently. In the past, I would find a fabric that I really liked and then find other fabrics to go with it. I didn't just go with a line of fabric; I used lots of different lines. These days, I often am working with a line of fabric from a fabric company or one of my batik lines that I designed for Island Batik. In that case, I just have to decide what goes where!
How did you get started as a pattern designer?
When I made my first quilt as a teenager, I didn't have a pattern so I just figured it out myself. I didn't even know about the ¼" seam allowance! After that, I made more quilts, eventually took a class and learned some basics. I was always doing my own thing, drafting my own patterns on graph paper and even when I started to buy quilt patterns, I wanted to change the pattern, and make it slightly different. After I had been quilting a while, a friend and I decided we wanted to start a quilt business as we thought it would be more fun than working in a nursing home. We debated buying a quilt shop but, since I had done quilt designs for myself, we decided to start a quilt pattern business.
How many sewing machines do you have? lol
OH - do I really have to admit to it? I have 4, no wait... 5 machines. The 2 machines I use the most are my everyday machine, which right now is a Janome Memory Craft and a Singer Featherweight. I love to take the Featherweight to classes or to group sew days.
Can you give us your best quilting tip (inquiring minds want to know!)?
Tips are always tricky as it depends on what we are talking about but my general, best overall tip is to slow down. When I am not racing through a project, sewing super fast, and just speeding to the finish line, I find I sew more accurately and I usually enjoy it more. Racing to the end makes me forget why I quilt in the first place, which is not just to finish but to enjoy the process.
I love that tip! Sounds like me - rushing that project! If you would like to read Kate's interview of yours truly, visit her blog here - we really had fun doing this! And, if you would like to learn more about Kate, visit:
So great to get to know Kate!
Next week, we'll continue on our Building a Better Bag project, focusing on handling foam thickness! Stay tuned and keep stitching!
-Kris
This is part 3 of our Building a Better Bag series!
The ideas and techniques in this post are specifically geared towards the Novel Approach pattern. We are using the “A Novel Approach” bag pattern. This bag was designed to use those small novelty squares in the pockets. It is a quilted tote – pretty basic, but pretty useful!
I am using QT Fabric’s On Painted Wings panel combined with the Euphoria line. Love the bright and fresh factor of these fabrics!
Let’s start with talking about the panels on the pockets. The pattern instructions tell you to cut the panel blocks into squares. However, these panel blocks had very pretty “frames” around them that I would be cutting off.
So I decided to to cut them wonky so that I could show a bit of that fun frame. I placed my ruler over the block to audition, then cut the square.
And the result - I think it looks more like a butterfly that’s flitting around:
Here are the wonky pockets (before stitching to the outside of the bag). Fun! If you are looking for a way to create interest with blocks from a panel – why not give this a try?
There are so many possibilities for these pockets – border stripes, sample blocks, decorative stitches, trims – just use your imagination! We will be posting more options on Instagram and Facebook. Do you follow us?
Now – let’s build some straps. We are using Peltex for our straps – I like the fusible Peltex (71 or 72) but for this technique, it doesn't even have to be fusible. Why Peltex? I like that it keeps it shape over the long term.
Our first step is to join the Peltex strips to create the straps. The most important thing to remember is that you don’t want to join strips in the center of the strap. If you need a 40” long strap, don’t join 2 20” lengths – that will result in a noticeable crease in the middle. Instead, join a 10”- 20” – 10” combination. That way the join is not in a conspicuous location! I join with a zig zag stitch.
Then fuse the fabric strip to the Peltex strap. Our instructions tell you to fold over the other side of the fabric strip – that will be folded over later as you will see.
Wrap and press.
Clip in place.
Then topstitch, using your walking foot. Always use the edge of your foot or some other reference point while stitching, so that the stitches stay straight.
For the Novel Approach, the pocket panel is stitched in place on the outside of the tote base. Then the straps are placed over it. Now – the stackup of materials is getting pretty thick here.
Here are the layers:
The straps are laid over the pockets, which are already stitched to the tote base. But with these layers, there is little chance of pinning those straps in place! So all I do is clip at the top of the tote and yes, tape the straps down. Once you stitch one side of the strap, the tape is no longer needed. Look at my setup:
To topstitch the straps in place, make sure you use either a size 90 Jeans needle or a size 90 Topstitch needle and your walking foot!
This bag is really starting to shape up! If you would like to see our previous Building a Better Bag posts, click below:
Next up: we are going to talk about bulky seams and some tricks that you can use!
Thanks for stopping by! -Kris
Let’s keep going with the better bag series; a series of blog posts that takes a basic bag and levels it up. We will add details to the bag as we go along. Time to get started! We are using the “A Novel Approach” bag pattern. This bag was designed to use those small novelty squares in the pockets. It is a quilted tote – pretty basic, but pretty useful! If you are following along, you can use the techniques that we show here to any bag!
I am using QT Fabric’s On Painted Wings panel combined with the Euphoria line. Love the bright and fresh factor of these fabrics!
This week, let’s talk about quilting with Bosal In-R-Form Plus. Last week we talked about fusing the double sided fusible foam and this week, we’ll talk about quilting it.
First off, what needle should be used when quilting with foam? In our case, we are quilting through the main outer fabric, as well as the lining and the foam. I would go with a size 90 needle, either a Microtex Sharp or a Topstitch needle. Both needles will ensure that you get good stitch formation.
For this project, I am using a walking or even-feed foot. Even though you have fused everything together, a walking foot ensures better results. A walking foot has a set of feed dogs on the bottom, and on the top. This helps to grip the fabric and move it through the machine more evenly, which is especially helpful when thicker layers.
How to mark the design? For this project, I used 1-1/2” blue masking tape. It’s a simple and re-useable option. Let’s get into it! I am quilting an on-point cross hatch design. You can also use this same technique to create loads of other designs. Start by laying a long ruler across the fused piece, aligning the 45-degree line with the bottom of the piece. Lay a piece of masking tape beside the ruler and you have started marking your design.
With your walking foot attached, stitch right beside the masking tape. I lengthened my stitch to 2.8-mm, this is my personal preference, because I want to see the quilting. I used a 40-wt thread here.
Now stitch a line ¼” away from the first – I love the double lines of quilting.
Repeat this process on the other side of the tape, and then reposition the tape beside the last row that was quilted.
Quilt across the entire fused piece. I can get one side of the tote done with one piece of tape (and yes, it gets a little fuzzy at the end!!).
Here is the piece quilted in the first direction:
Repeat this process, quilting in the opposite direction. Lay the ruler out on the piece, this time align the 45-degree line with the side of the piece, so that you are creating that cross-hatch. So classic!
Repeat the quilting so that you have quilting in both directions. Here is a close-up of the quilting.
And here are the front and the back of the Novel Approach Tote – all quilted and ready for pockets and straps. We'll tackle that next week!
Quilting Take-aways:
Next week, we’ll talk about making straps and putting pockets on this tote! Thanks for stopping by! -Kris
I’ve always wanted to do a Basic Bag Project series; a series of blog posts that takes a basic bag and levels it up. We will add details to the bag as we go along. Time to get started!
We are going to jump right in with the “A Novel Approach” bag pattern. This bag was designed to use those small novelty squares in the pockets. It is a quilted tote – pretty basic, but pretty useful!
This bag features QT Fabric’s On Painted Wings panel combined with the Euphoria line. Love the bright and fresh factor of these fabrics!
Because it’s so easy to use and gives such a pro finish – let’s break out the Bosal In-R-Form Plus (it’s a double-sided fusible foam) as the base for our tote. We used a light fusible fleece in the pockets, instead of using the foam there. Why? We are reducing the bulk in the side seam by using a thinner interfacing for the pockets. If you’d like to use foam here, too – go ahead; I’ll address handling bulky seams in another post.
After opening your package of foam, you might notice some creases. If you would like to relax the foam a bit before using it, open out the foam and lay it over a clean sheet on the floor. Place a quilt over the foam to weigh it down gently. After 24 hours, you will notice that those creases have relaxed slightly (it may not be perfectly flat, but it will be easier to cut).
The foam and fabric is cut – now it’s time to fuse. Lay a piece of parchment paper or a Teflon sheet on your ironing surface. Place the foam over the parchment paper, then line up the lining fabric over top of that. Lightly mist the fabric with a mister filled with plain water. Smooth away any wrinkles in the fabric. With a hot iron press firmly, but do not smash the foam down. Press but do not iron (sliding side to side). The fabric is fused to the foam when it is dry. Now repeat on the other side.
Foam Tips:
Next week, we’ll quilt our fused foam for some beautiful texture! Thanks for stopping by! -Kris
Hello from the Poorhouse!
We have had multiple requests from folks that want to make mini Fold'n Stitch Wreaths - they are just so cute! So, if you have the pattern, I am going to explain what you need to do to "shrink" that wreath!!
I hope you have fun making a mini!!
Keep on stitching!
-Kris
What is the number one FAQ that we get here at Poorhouse Quilt Designs? It's "where is the video for the Fold'n Stitch Wreath?"
Here it is:
And you can also access the video that shows the applique, by clicking here and finding the video.
So ends my shortest blog post ever!
Have fun!
-Kris
Welcome to our series called “Wreath Mods”! We are taking the Fold’n Stitch Wreath and applying some simple changes (modifications hence “Wreath Mods”)! Every month we will show you a new mod; think of it as a fresh spin on your old favorite!
Supplies
What do you need for the Cutting Corners wreath? You will need the original Fold’n Stitch Wreath pattern, a package of Bosal pre-cut foam squares, fabric and fusible web (see the supply list on the pattern). And, your creativity, of course!
Fabric Choices
Using the pattern as a guide, I chose to use the same fabric (white) for the front and the back fabric. For the applique, I chose a red and white print. The simple red and white combination really allows the shape of the modified wreath to shine.
The "Mod"
When making changes to any pattern, it’s better to start with a single change, rather than making multiple changes at once. One change means the result is predictable.
As the name implies, we are cutting corners! We will cut one corner from the foam squares. And because we cut one corner from the foam, we’ll need to do it to the appliques.
It’s easy - let’s dig into this!
Get Sewing
As in the pattern, you will cover the foam shapes and stitch the applique on top.
TIP: Start the applique stitching opposite the “clipped” corner. That way the stitches where you start and end will overlap and any messy bobbin thread will face the wall or the tabletop!
I used a blanket stitch for this wreath - you could also try decorative stitches for a fun look. After you finish covering the shapes, you will assemble the wreath just as you did in the pattern.
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Click here to see the Fold’n Stitch Wreath Tutorial
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Fun Fresh Wreath
Finish During the assembly of the wreath, use the template provided with the pattern as is. The key is to position the cut off corner as the "Outer Point" on the template.
I love how quick and easy this change is! I think it really jazzed up the Fold’n Stitch Wreath - I can see this wreath done in spring colors!
So next time you want to make up a wreath, remember our Wreath Mods, and make one simple change!
Have fun! -Kris
Once again, we are exploring “Wreath Mods”! We are taking the Fold’n Stitch Wreath and applying some simple changes (modifications hence “Wreath Mods”)! Every month we will show you a new mod; think of it as a fresh spin on your old favorite! This month, we are adding a soft curve to our squares!
Supplies
Gather up what you’ll need for the February curved wreath! You will need the original Fold’n Stitch Wreath pattern, a package of foam squares, fabric and fusible web (see the supply list on the pattern).
Fabric Choices
I chose a large-ish floral for the back fabric, a white and black for the front, and a black on black print for the applique. These fabrics are from the Piece of Cake line by QT Fabrics (designed by Sheree Burlington).
The Mod
This modification is really simple; take the foam squares and the applique squares and round one corner. That’s it!
Click here for the link to the template to round your corners.
Print out the template and use it as is, or tape it to an index card, as you can see in the top pic below. This just gives your template a bit more stiffness.
Now, sew the wreath together, following the pattern instructions!
As in the pattern, you will cover the foam shapes and stitch the applique on top.
I chose a coral thread for the top and the bottom thread. I wanted the contrast of the coral with the black and white to show.
I used a blanket stitch for this wreath - you could also try decorative stitches for a fun look. After you finish covering the shapes, you will assemble the wreath just as you did in the pattern.
This is just a subtle change really softens the look of the Fold’n Stitch Wreath!
So next time you want to make up a wreath, remember our Wreath Mods, and make one simple change!
-Kris
Our pattern collection at Poorhouse Quilt Designs is varied; we go from bags to baskets to wreaths, etc! Today, I thought I’d get into the wayback machine to have a look at the Turn Dash Quilt!
A Classic
What makes this quilt a classic?
Or, I might love that classic combo of blue and white!
Choosing Fabric
This pattern supply list starts with a focus fabric. Then you’ll choose coordinating fat quarters, which you will use for the center squares or the bars. And of course, a background. Choose 7, 9 or 11 fat quarters depending on the size you need and then you’ll get going.
Next, choose the background - I love the version of the quilt below with a black background. We used it as a tablecloth at retail shows, to get quilters to stop and look! This photo is from Maine Quilts in 2016!
Traditional or Modern
This quilt design can be done in any fabric style. Take a look below at these “virtual quilts”. The first one is a baby quilt done in 30s fabrics.
The next one, just solids for a modern look. Different looks, same pattern!
Quick and Easy Assembly
There are no special tools or rulers required for the Turn Dash quilt. We feature oversize HST units that are cut to size as well as some simple strip piecing. Attach the zigzag border or leave it off. It’s all up to you!
We think you’ll like this quilt - perfect for your next baby shower, or just a throw for your couch. Come to think of it, I might need a new quilt for our couch... stay tuned!
Until next time, keep on quilting!
-Kris
Our Scalloped Basket pattern is ideal for storing sewing projects or banana bread for your helpful neighbor! I have always wanted to add a handle - so here is how I did it! Basically, I rummaged through my scraps, made the basket according to the pattern instructions and added a handle at the end.
What do you need for this project?
Construction Choices
After you have finished making your basket, (you can access the video for the basket here), you will need a finished handle. Here’s what my basket looked like before:
There are 2 methods that we can use to attach the handle: 1. Sew directly to the sides of the basket, right through the handle; or 2. Add buttonholes to the ends of your handle and attach using buttons.
The advantage to method 1 is that it is fast and easy, but you will not be able to completely flatten the basket to store it. With method 2, you can remove the handle and flatten the basket to store it for the next time you want to use it.
Handle
For either method, you will need your 6” x 16” fabric strip and the same sized interfacing strip.
I used Pellon 931; next time I would probably use Pellon Decor Bond for more stiffness.
Step 1
Test your iron settings first - take a scrap of the interfacing and fabric. Place fabric, right side up over interfacing (dotted side up). Set your iron to wool/steam and spritz the fabric lightly with water. Press for 10-15 seconds, overlapping to get the entire test piece fused. Let cool and test the bond to see if it has adhered. Now fuse the handle strip to the interfacing.
Step 2
At each end. bring edges together in the center, right sides together. Pin.
Step 3
Sew across each end using a 1/4 inch seam.
Step 4
Turn right side out and press.
Step 5
Fold in half in the center and top stitch all around. I like using a top stitch needle for this.
And "Voila", a handle!
Method 1: Buttoned Up
This is the simpler of the two methods. Get out a beefy needle with a sharp end - Embroidery size 5 would work well here. Thread the needle, quadrupling the thread. Stitch the button to the handle end first, then through the basket and repeat on both sides. You are done!
Method 2: Buttonholes
For this method, I invite you to break out that sewing machine manual and have fun making buttonholes. I come from a garment making background, so I really found this rewarding to do. I did a test buttonhole first - I made up a sample strap so that I had the same thickness that I would use in the final product. Then I let the sewing machine churn out the buttonholes for me! Be sure the test that you have the right size for the buttonhole. Once I cut the buttonhole, I also apply fray check.
The rest is easy; sew a button to the basket and add your handle. You can then remove it whenever you want!
Like this post and want to find it again? Pin it! (And of course, we’d love for you to follow us on Pinterest!)
As always, have fun and keep on creating!
-Kris
We are so happy to announce the debut of the Welcome Home Banners pattern! We have been eagerly awaiting the chance to show it off and here it is!
Sew fun! Make the base banner once (yes, you read that right) and then make interchangeable designs to use all year round! I love the porch leaners that I see around town - so cute! I have often thought, I have a little spot near the front door that would look so cute with a Welcome banner.
The base banner is done in a traditional method, with quilt batting; you can choose to quilt it or not.
Bosal has pre-cut foam circles to go with this design, for the interchangeable shapes. This means all of the circles will be the same size - no hand cutting! There are 12-packs available (monthly),
You can choose to use a wood look fabric, as in the Home banner below:
Applique using the foam circles adds a puffy dimension. While appliqueing, I did not have to adjust my sewing machine at all - I just recommend using a topstitch needle with the foam - for pretty stitches! As you can see below, a blanket stitch or a zig-zag stitch works, whatever you prefer.
The designs are held in place with a sew-on Velcro.
There are 12 interchangeable designs in the pattern- just waiting for your scraps!
Welcome your guests home with our banners! These simple banners can be put up with a quilt hanger or 3M Command Strips! Keep them up all year long and just change them up with your designs. The Home banner finishes at 8” x 25”, the Welcome banner at 9” x 41”.
Right now we are offering Starter Kits with laser cut Welcome and Home Text - check out the details here:
Ask for Welcome Home Banners pattern at your local quilt shop!
Keep on creating! -Kris
Our newest release, Snowberry Runners is a playful pattern that is fun to make! Using 2 colors or your scraps, I think you will find this versatile pattern has many uses!
This pattern features freezer paper piecing. I chose it so that you get repeatable and accurate results with skinny strips. The applique is optional; you can add it or not - I like the berries!
We recommend printable freezer paper for this project. I like C&T's version for this - you will use 1-2 sheets for this project and have enough for other projects! Use this in your inkjet printer - so fast and easy.
Freezer paper piecing tips that I have for you:
As you can see, there are 2 versions, but really, there are endless versions! Here's my scrappy Kaffe-y version:
Here Is what I played with before putting the above together - just snowflake sections, no berries. I like this too!
Here's a single block with borders:
And the resulting pillow; I will be sharing a flanged pillow for quilt blocks soon.
Ask for the Snowberry Runners at your local quilt shop or find it at stinasquilt.com! It's a lot of fun!
Like this post and want to find it again? Pin it! (And of course, we’d love for you to follow us on Pinterest!)
Keep on creating!
-Kris
How did we do it? Let's start off with what we used for fabric choices:
You can use other colors but be sure to use white for the front and for the crystal appliques. We used the Fold'n Stitch Wreath pattern as well as the Bosal Foam Squares to create the wreath. Here's the key: the fabric you choose for the Applique should contrast with white.
Follow cutting and assembling your wreath using the pattern through step 8 on page 2. Before you stitch, you will want to add the crystal appliques.
Click here to grab the pdf that tells you how to cut the diamond shaped crystal appliques from strips - it's very easy!
You will need 24 crystal applique shapes. Once your crystals are cut, let's look at what we did!
First, lay your diamond shaped crystals on two opposite corners and fuse down following the manufacturer's instructions; draw a line through the centers from corner to corner with a temporary marker as shown above.
Next, draw 2 more lines parallel to the first that also intersect with the outermost corners of the crystal appliques.
Last, you will have some stitching fun!
Now you can go back to the pattern where you left off and finish the wreath!
As you can see from the photo above, we stitched the corners together with pearl beads, and added 3 beads on the inner crystals and just one at the outer crystal. Bling it up as much as you want - the objective is to have fun! I hope you will try this!
Stitch up a storm today!
-Kris
Color wheels and quilting – they just go hand in hand – I carry a paper color wheel in my purse for fabric shopping (you never know when your car may find a quilt shop)! So – why not make yourself one? I used the Fold’n Stitch Bloom pattern to make my rainbow!
We covered pre-cut hexagons in this design.
Michael Miller Fabric’s Cotton Couture is a great basic for your stash- there are 214 colors and the fabric is silky smooth!
I have done so many projects with Hash Dot - it adds some spunk when you need it!
I chose to use Cotton Couture for my appliques and the back of the shapes and Hash Dot for the front of the shapes (what looks like the binding).
Back to art class:
ROYGBIV is an acronym for the sequence of hues that make up a rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. This sequence dictates my color choices. Because there are 10 hexagons in the Bloom, I inserted some of my favorites as well – coral, acid green and turquoise (yummy) to round out my choices.
A few notes on my Bloom - I chose to use a navy Aurifil 50wt thread to match the back of the hexagons. You could choose a contrasting thread if you like. I used silver seed beads to connect my petals - I think silver complements all of the colors.
Now I have a tool that I can use to create color combinations! Looking at the Color Wheel Bloom – I can see:
Happy stitching!
-Kris
What a cute bouquet and you will not believe how easy this is to do!
If you would like to use some of your scraps for a fun arrangement - start with our pattern, Sunflower Nesting Bowls.
The pattern uses Bosal Foam and Fiber’s Moldable batting – so much fun to work with – it shrinks when you heat it!
I made 5 small blooms – I used the small size flower in the pattern. I completely finished them and texturized them as described in the pattern, except I left them a bit flatter than the bowl.
Now hot glue the stem back in and you are good to go!
How many bouquets are you going to make? Have fun with your scraps!.
Keep on stitchin!
-Kris
We've had some fun adding texture to bags with Aurifil's 12 wt cotton - join me!
First, I wanted to make a quilted panel with a bold quilted crosshatch pattern. I fused a Cotton Couture magenta solid to one side of Bosal In-R-Form Plus (a double sided fusible foam). Then I fused quilters grid interfacing to the other side. The quilters grid is just a very light interfacing that is pre-marked in 1” increments. Quilting grid is manufactured by Bosal Foam and Fiber as well as by Pellon. Ask for it at your local quilt shop!
I filled my bobbin with Aurifil’s 12wt thread in a springy green and used a 50wt thread in the top. Then I straight stitched along the grid so that my bobbin thread is the main attraction! Here is a video of how I did it:
Tip: I set the stitch length to 3.5mm so that the thread really shows up!
This is a simple solution if you want to jazz up a pouch or bag – follow that grid! This is what the texture looks like:
Now, for the other side of my Roundabout Bag, I wanted to use a grid again, but create it a bit differently. Here are my supplies:
In the video below, you can see how I created the grid with a quilt stencil (this grid was 1” as well).
Here is how I created the quilting pattern: The first illustration shows the light gray marked grid, then the first step of stitching the diagonal grid (in red) through the marked grid intersections.
The second step adds more stitching so have an inner diamond – first, mark at ½” from center of diamond, then stitch through.
In the final step, stitch a straight line through the center of the diamond (OK, it’s an on point square!)!
It is really pretty easy, and the result looks far more complicated than it really is.
With my 2 quilted panels, I am ready to create a Roundabout Bag – here is the pattern:
Here is the finished bag:
By the way, you can't see it in the pictures, but I chose a green zipper to tie in with the thread - this is a fun bag! Your choice of quilting can really up your game – be adventurous and just give your next project a bit of easy texture and some fun thread!
Until next time - keep on quilting! -Kris
There are many different hand stitching needles on the market today. I would like to focus on 3 types of needles to keep in your toolbox that will work with Poorhouse Quilt Designs’ projects!
Poorhouse Quilt Designs patterns focus on using support materials other than 100% cotton quilt batting. We like to use foam, nonwoven interfacings, and stiffeners. You might encounter thick layers and your general sewing needle isn’t up for the job.
What should you consider when choosing a hand stitching needle?
Embroidery Needles
Chenille Needles
Sharps (General Purpose Sewing)
Keeping the correct tool on hand saves you so much time and it really helps with a professional finish.
Stay stitching!-Kris
Do you love adding texture to your projects?
Let's use a twin needle! I have always admired heirloom sewing, however, it never meshed with my personal style so my experience with pintucks and such were limited.
Because I speak with many bag makers, I am always looking for interesting textures to try. So I experimented with a twin needle (4.0mm) with Bosal’s In-R-Form. It creates a nice raised “tunnel” effect that can be used to create texture.
I started with a foam square and a solid fabric. I love the Cotton Couture line from Michael Miller Fabrics! It sews up beautifully with a lovely silky hand and so many yummy colors!. Most importantly – solids show off your stitches. So, if you are taking the time for a stitched technique – use a solid, or a tone on tone.
If you have questions about using Bosal In-R-Form - here is a link to a handy Fusible Foam guide - Successful Fusing with In-R-Form Foam Products!
To create the texture, you will need 2 spools of thread on the top, to feed the twin needle. For ease, place a bobbin with matching thread in the bobbin. Select a straight stitch (I used a 3.0mm length) and you are ready to stitch!
Here is a video of how I did the texture:
Some twin needle texture tips:
Here is a closeup of the texture I created – you could also add beads at all of the intersections (Alas I have no purple beads!)!
I decided to use my samples to create a pouch from my Explorer bag pattern. I moved the zipper to the shorter side of the rectangle, and I also reduced the side gusset width to 2”. I added a wrist strap in lieu of the cross body strap.
Here is the final pouch – all set to go! The pattern comes with the “Explore” zipper charm!
Do you see yourself using this technique?
I am off now to play with more texture!
Have fun! Kris
Instead of diving right in with your project pieces, use some scraps to determine how you will create that beautiful bond!
Use a notebook and take notes to record your testing and results.
How to test:
Read the manufacturer's instructions for fusing.
Set your iron at the setting recommended or if you can't find the instructions, start with your iron's wool setting.
Use a damp pressing cloth* to protect your iron and your fabric. Steam from the press cloth helps the fusible adhesive penetrate the fashion fabric.
Use a Teflon sheet or parchment paper under your samples to protect your ironing surface.
For light to medium weight interfacing: Place the bumpy side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press from the smooth side of the interfacing.
For heavy weight or foam interfacing, place the fabric OVER the foam (adhesive side up) and fuse in place using a damp* press cloth. Fuse each area for 10-15 seconds, overlapping your iron to avoid missing areas.
Pressure: Maintain even firm pressure on your iron; if using foam, do not press so hard that you compress the foam!
To avoid “heat shock” (looks like a bubbly surface), you can pre-heat the fabric then fuse.
Keep in mind that you may need to follow up by fusing from the right side.
Check the bond: Let the fabric cool. If the interfacing is not sticking, go back and increase temperature and try to fuse again. If you see that the adhesive is leaving a "greasy" mark on the fabric, dial back on the temperature.
Aren't you glad you did this test?
Happy Stitching!
-Kris
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One of the most common questions that we get here at Poorhouse Quilt Designs is:
Foam stabilizer is used when you need structure for your finished project. Bags are a great example! You will want your bag to hold it’s shape over time. The foam is also thicker than other stabilizer products, so it can cushion as well.
Let’s start with what I use - I prefer Bosal Foam and Fiber’s In-R-Form products. There are other foam stabilizers out there, this post will address Bosal products, but you might also find info you can apply to the others. Bosal has 3 types of foam stabilizers: Sew In, Single Sided Fusible Foam and Double Sided Fusible Foam - which should I use?
It helps to know the features of each type of foam. Sew-In is what it sounds like - there is no fusible adhesive applied to it. Bosal Sew-In In-R-Form has a layer of “spun lace” (feels like a flannel) on both sides of the foam which allows the foam to grab the fabric. This product is great for projects that will be quilted or that you don’t want to fuse. We use the Sew In Foam for our Dry Ideas pattern.
What if you actually needed Fusible Foam, but bought Sew-In? No worries! Either apply a temporary basting spray (we like 505) of fusible web according manufacturer’s instructions!
Tip - If you are working on a project that would benefit from quilting on one side, use a frixion pen to draw the quilt lines on and stitch from the back.
Single Sided Fusible In-R-Form features one fusible side and one side with spun lace. Let's say you have a tote bag pattern with a lining that is attached around the top and it is "loose". Single sided fusible is perfect here - the spun lace will grab the lining and hold it inside the tote for you. I generally fuse the fashion fabric to the outside and do some fun walking foot quilting.
How can I tell which one I have? Spun lace looks and feels like a soft flannel. The adhesive side appears somewhat shiny and will be noticeably harder to the touch. That will go away when you fuse it - the fabric and the adhesive bond as the glue melts into the fabric.
Double Sided Fusible In-R-Form Plus features two fusible sides. This product is used when you want to quickly assemble the project and you don’t mind binding the edges. Tip - you might want to use a teflon sheet or parchment to protect your ironing surface when you are fusing the first side. We love using Double Sided Fusible for our placemat projects, like Scalloped Mats!
Tip: Flower Head pins or Wonder Clips are great for holding foam projects together!
Bottom line: Which foam stabilizer you pick depends on the construction method for the project. The pattern designer will generally tell you what type to use on the pattern. It helps to know what type is used where, in case you want to try something different!
How to fuse foam with success?
Done!
Don’t be afraid to work with different foams - we love the quilted texture that you can get with foam!
Whether you need an interfacing, fusible foam, or fusible web, you can correctly choose which one you need and learn how to best use it with this resourceful pocket-sized book, Guide to Interfacings - written by yours truly! Ask for it at your local quilt shop or you can purchase it here.
Have fun stitching!
Kris
We have the Fold'n Stitch Leaf Topper pattern and In-R-Form Leaf Shape interfacing available, click on the images below for more information.
Fold'n Stitch Leaf Topper |
In-R-Form Leaf Shape interfacing |
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Here are some ideas to make your Petal Pouch a little different or to dress it up. Pattern designer Kris Poor offers a bunch of fun ideas and tips for the Petal Pouch in two of her recent blog posts... take a look!
Click on the titles or images to read the blog posts.
Petal Pouch Hack #1 - Decorative stitching
Petal Pouch Hack #2 - Petal Pouch without Petals?
We have the Petal Pouch pattern and Petal Pouch Starter Kits available, click on the images below for more information.
Petal Pouch pattern |
Petal Pouch Starter Kit |
Know which side is fusible – if you are using the single sided fusible, look for the side that has a slight sheen. This is the fusible side. The opposite side (not fusible) feels more like suede – it’s a spun lace that is applied which helps the fabric grip the surface.
Lightly mist with water - Place the fabric OVER the fusible side and position as needed. Lightly mist with water.
Fuse the fabric and foam - Set your iron to the cotton setting. Apply the iron to the fabric and fuse the foam in place for approximately 6 seconds.
If you are using double sided fusible foam, place the foam on top of a Teflon sheet (or parchment paper) to protect your ironing surface.
Always press down (slight pressure) and hold; don’t iron back and forth while fusing.
Sometimes when the pattern calls out for multiple pieces that use the same fabric, these pieces are joined with very small "bridges". This allows us to manufacture the kit quicker and ensures you get all the pieces you need in your kit. These bridges can be neatly trimmed off before they are fused to the final project.
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